2014 March-April

by plumbing expert Rich Grimes

What is the best domestic water piping system? Great question with no easy answer! It is truly a matter of preference and each system has its own inherent benefits. Let’s look at some of the more common materials that are used. Most products up to 2″ size are Copper Tube Size (CTS) but alternative methods can be Iron Pipe Size (IPS). The key is that products must be NSF-61 listed for potable water.

COPPER is one of the oldest and most reliable methods for domestic water supplies. It has become an expensive metal over time so that opens the door for alternative piping systems. It has various benefits such as strength, corrosion and temperature resistance, longevity and its natural ability to inhibit bacterial growth. It uses full-flow fittings (tube fits inside of fitting) that are typically soldered connections.

CPVC is another CTS piping material that is often used for domestic water. It is a harder version of PVC that can withstand temperatures up to 180F. It employs a full-flow fitting that is usually socket-welded with solvent-cement. It is non-metallic so it can answer some issues that may arise with copper (dielectric corrosion, etc.) but it is a polymer that can degrade when exposed to petroleum and other chemical products. While it is mostly sold up to 2″ size in CTS, it also is sold as a Schedule 40 or 80 IPS potable water distribution system.

PEX is another polymer that is rated for domestic potable water. It is also CTS size tubing with an internal fitting. It uses a crimp-ring or clamp around the tubing and fitting to create a joint. Crimp and clamp tools are an integral part of the system for making a watertight connection. PEX is a flexible, labor-saving product that is produced in long coils. Long runs can be accomplished with fewer fittings or no fittings under slab.

There are several other polymers that have a NSF-61 rating, typically in IPS and used on domestic water lines over 2″ size. These are competing with large diameter metal piping systems for CW and HW mains of copper or SS.

One variable that must considered is the fittings to be used and the joining method. Today there are a variety of specialty fittings that can greatly reduce installation time and labor. While these fittings and joining methods may have a higher fitting cost, they can ultimately save money when considering the total installed cost. Press fittings have become popular because they greatly reduce labor and allow for a viable copper joint. Solvent welded CPVC can save labor over a soldered copper connection but there are solvent cement costs and joint curing times that must be considered. PEX fittings cost more that CPVC fittings but their clamping methods reduce labor and there is no waiting for curing. A mechanically-extracted tee on copper can eliminate most fitting costs and greatly reduce labor, but they require brazed joints and the cost of the tool system comes into play. Push-joint fittings eliminate tool costs, soldering or solvent-welding, down time, and labor but the fitting cost is higher…

It is probably best to look at items like project location, type of service, local environment, operating temperatures, ambient temperatures, tubing heat transfer, etc. to select the right piping or tubing for a project. Most contractors will utilize several if not all of these methods in their business, but typically standardize on a preferred pipe and fitting method. There is no single piping system that can meet every need and each system has its own benefits and best application. As well, each system is not bulletproof and can be susceptible to the surrounding environment, chemicals or various stresses that can cause a failure. Most products today have very high pressure ratings and it is proven that most piping failures are due to improper preparation and installation. If the manufacturer’s instructions are followed, any of these piping methods can provide a good domestic water distribution system that will last for years and years.

Choosing between High Mass or Low Mass boilers

By Jack Daniels

There has been much discussion on low and high mass boilers as of late. With high mass boilers now being available in highly efficient modulating and condensing configurations only adds more wrenches to that discussion.  The decision of what boiler to use is often made in the boiler room. Today, let’s discuss the real basis on how to choose what boiler is right for you. Wise contractors know the system will tell you what boiler is best.

Taking a look at how the ideal hydronic system should operate is as simple as considering the idea that what is produced is used.  In other words, if we can achieve equilibrium and have the boiler start up in the fall and not shut down until the spring then we will be as efficient as the boiler’s ratings. As we all know, this is not always possible, heck, it is almost never achieved, thus the need for options in the configuration or mass of the boiler.

Suppose we have all of the proper elements of a hydronic system in their proper locales. The heat source (boiler), circulator, expansion tank, make up water, and heat emitters all have their own temperature and flow requirements. The objective is to achieve a reliable, inexpensive, comfortable, and over all efficient system. Failure to look at all aspects of the system will ultimately add to costs (initial and ongoing), as well as under heating, overheating, wasted energy, and most importantly, a disappointed customer.

First, let’s look at the low mass boilers. A few of the obvious benefits include low cost, high efficiency, and space saving. Another benefit to the low mass boiler is recovery time. A low mass boiler will come up to temperature very quickly as it does not have a lot of water to heat. This is ideal in applications that handle heating and domestic hot water needs. So, if I have a 2,500 square foot house that has one zone of in-floor heat the boiler can go from 120 degrees for the heating of the floor to 180 degrees for heating an indirect water tank very quickly.  Sweet! End of discussion. No need for high mass boilers.

What?! Your customer wants the bedrooms a tad cooler than the living spaces and wants to have the master bath warmer than the rest of the house? This creates the need for micro zones.  Now we have created a zone that can only “use” 6,000 BTU’s. Our low mass boiler can only modulate down to 19,000 BTU’s. We are producing more than we can use. Houston we have a problem. The boiler is going to take the water for the small zone to temperature very quickly (which is one of the advantages of a low mass boiler) and be forced to shut down.  The small zone, however, is still calling for heat so the boiler has to fire again and again as it takes the water for that small zone up to temperature very quickly and shuts down.  Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Considering that each time a boiler fires it takes a short amount of time for the flame to stabilize and be most efficient in addition to stressing the components of the boiler, short-cycling will lead to a very unhappy customer.

So the answer here is to use a high mass boiler.  Awesome! Always use a high mass boiler when micro-zoning. End of discussion.  But now we have to keep all of that mass up to 180 degrees even in the summertime to produce the domestic hot water in addition to needing a mixing valve for the central heating. Though standby losses have been greatly reduced, they still exist. This is a system that should have mass added to the central heating side but not to the domestic water side.  See our last article in Wisconsin perspectives titled, “Ailing hydronic systems: Is there a doctor in the house?”  As you’ll recall, in that article we discussed buffer tanks in detail.

So if we do not have a domestic load in the aforementioned scenario should we use a high mass boiler? This author says yes. It is the best of all worlds. It can take advantage of outdoor reset and handle the micro zones with the energy stored in the higher mass.

Now, let’s take a look at high mass modulating and condensing boilers. We are no longer restricted to using cast iron behemoths that are not very efficient.  Manufacturers have recently introduced very efficient boilers that have the mass or storage needed for the micro zoned applications.  Other advantages of high mass boilers include lower pressure drop, less maintenance, and ease of installation as there is no need for primary secondary piping.

I would also use high mass boilers in any system that you would suspect debris. Retrofit applications replacing cast iron boilers are an ideal place for a high mass boiler. Gone are the worries about plugged exchangers, water treatments, and endless flushing. Let’s not forget high mass boilers were first then the low mass boilers came on the market as higher efficiency options.  Now, with high mass boilers being as efficient as their low mass counterparts, I view them as another option in the arsenal of comfortable, money saving options heating professionals can offer their customer

So the answer about whether to use high mass or low mass boilers stays the same; it depends.

For information from the author, contact Gregory “Jack” Daniels, Hot Water Products, Inc, (877) 377-0011, HotWaterProducts.com

Success – by Jim Hinshaw

Just had a conversation with a client: what are the top three things that are standing in our way to improving profits this year?  I said, my view from 30,000 feet, here are three that I see.  Not enough leads, close rate too low on the few leads we have, and profits are lower on the few we do sell.  Sort of connected, one leads to the next in some ways.  Take the not enough leads opportunity: when the number of leads drops off, we look at our numbers, realize the bank wants the mortgage money even if the weather was beautiful, sale or no sale.  So we lower our prices, but turns out the competition is doing the same thing.  And even if we do sell one, it is at lower efficiency and/or price point than we hoped for, so the profits are not there.  How do we fix that?

First of all, don’t depend on the weather, the economy, or some government tax credit  to drive your business.  It will disappoint you.   How do we make the phone ring?  Simple, by picking it up and dialing it.  Yes, calling your customers.  Go ahead, tell me you can’t, against the law, all that sort of stuff.  Not if they are already clients.  So call your customers who have done business with you in the past, offer them a discounted tune-up, a safety inspection, or free analysis of their water in the home.  People are not doing maintenance as much as they used to in this economy, but they will spend money on three things: health, safety, economy.   They will not call in, you have to initiate the call, make the offer a decent one that gives them some assurance they will get a positive result (maybe a money back guarantee?), make it a positive thing.

Two other positive outcomes from calling out to your customer base.  The replacement job is not on the street.  You created the opportunity.  The customer who has used you in the past trusts you; you have become the trusted advisor.

Now, how do you build your customer base.  One way is to join a networking group.  Like BNI.  Business Network International.  Go to bni.com.  You can find a chapter near you, and search for chapter that is looking for your trade.  They only allow one company from each trade, if you are the plumbing company, there is not another one.  Cost is about $400 per year; a couple of service calls will repay that investment.  Typically you can sit in a couple of meetings without joining, see if the magic is there.  If not, try another group.  Find one that meets in the morning, with over 20 members.  Less than that, they are not an a fully functioning group, may be a while before they get traction.  Usually the real estate, insurance, and lawyer groups meet at noon for lunch.  Our best bet is in the morning meetings with the painter, roofer, floor covering company, ones that are getting engaged with remodeling projects.  So if you cannot make that happen, form your own networking group.  Meet for coffee once a month with a roofer, pest control company, alarm company, companies you trust and would like to refer people to.  See how their business is going, and something neat will happen.  They will actually help grow your business.  Have a formal program in place where your company knows who to refer a roofing job to.  Don’t ask or expect a referral fee, instead let them know you want reciprocity.

One creative idea that I heard recently, a heating/air conditioning contractor worked with a pest control company to build his business.  When someone signed up for a monthly pest control service, they also got a heating/air conditioning maintenance at no cost.  What does it cost to add a new customer?  Adams Hudson will tell you it can be as much as $400 to bring them into the boat.  So spend less than $100 in labor, pick up a new customer, which is also a positive thing for the pest control company.   That is the sort of thing you can test on a small scale, grow it if it works.

So when you begin to look at projects that are referral based, or your own customer base, the last two items are taken care of.  You close more, at higher prices.  You are a trusted advisor, and the customer will open up with their real concerns, and you will sell more of the cutting edge products, higher efficiency, higher priced.  Instead of having to beat the other guys price.  When you tell the customer the price is built on what they said they wanted, they realize it is not your fault, they actually asked for that investment number.

Another item that will glue the customer to your company is your maintenance agreement program.  I talk to contractors all over the nation, just spent some time with a company that has been in business since the 50s.  Over 60 years.  I asked them if they had a maintenance agreement program, they said yes they did.  When I asked how many agreements they had, it got real quiet.  Finally went to the service dispatcher, she said they had almost 300 in effect.  The owner challenged her, said it had to be more, but it wasn’t.  So they had about 5 per year in business.  Not good.  No matter if you have been in business 5 months or 5 years, start today to sell maintenance agreements.  Set up a goal to add 100 or 500 this year, break it down to so many a month, per tech, per day, make it easy to track.  Then track it.  Share the results weekly on a chart, get the entire company involved.  Have a weekly award for most sold, greatest improved, largest dollars, that sort of thing.  Your maintenance agreement can be on HVAC, or Plumbing, or both.  Why not combine them into one great maintenance program, where you drain the water heater each year, check all the hose bibs, that sort of thing.

If you need help putting that program together, let me know, have done that many times.  And thanks for listening, next month have a great testimony from a client who used some sales techniques to land a couple of interesting jobs totaling over $500,000.  Yep, half a million, two jobs.  From a company that does a lot of residential, and one of these was a public bid that had to get three prices.  All by listening and taking action, not doing what the other guys were doing.

Oh, thanks also from those who bought my book, had some great sales last month, just got a check from PayPal, that is a good thing!