Oatey

Oatey Co. recently sponsored a plumbing day at Northeast Ohio Let’s Build Construction Camp for Girls, a program for middle-school-aged and high-school-aged girls to attend a free week-long camp to explore the construction trades, architecture, engineering, and construction manufacturing through hands-on experiences and field trips.

As a Premier Sponsor of the program, Oatey’s Women’s Resource Network (WRN), an associate resource group dedicated to women’s professional, personal, and leadership development, volunteered at the camp on Tuesday, June 27. Thirteen WRN members attended the plumbing day, teaching campers the art of installing Oatey’s Quadtro Washing Machine Outlet Box and other plumbing products that Oatey donated to the program. The group also hosted and led a Lunch-and-Learn about careers at Oatey, informing campers about the endless possibilities that exist for women in the construction industry.

Each camper received a copy of the book “The House That She Built,” empowering them to help spread the word about careers in construction. The book educates young readers about the people and skills that go into building a home and tells the true story of a home built by all female tradespeople.

“The Women’s Resource Network is proud to support a program that aims to inspire and equip young girls with knowledge of a traditionally male-dominated industry,” says Amanda Keiber, co-chair of the WRN and Director, Corporate Communications, Oatey Co.

“The hands-on experiences offered at the camp allowed these girls to learn on their feet, build camaraderie with one another, and realize their potential. It is not just about teaching plumbing skills, but also about imparting life skills, exposing them to possible career paths, and helping them break barriers to explore new possibilities.”

Oatey learned about Let’s Build on its “” podcast featuring guest Plumber Paige, a 20-year-old Skilled Trades Advocate and Social Media Influencer, who attended another recent Let’s Build camp that took place in Lehigh Valley, PA. After learning about Let’s Build, Oatey was eager to support the NE Ohio camp, as the program aligns well with Oatey’s mission to support the trades and help grow the pipeline of talent into the industry.

“We are grateful for the Oatey Women’s Resource Network’s involvement in Northeast Ohio Let’s Build Construction Camp for Girls,” says Shelly Higgins, Camp Director of NE Ohio Let’s Build Construction Camp for Girls. “The plumbing day that the WRN members hosted was a great opportunity for the campers to learn about installing Oatey’s innovative products and gain hands-on experience.

“Oatey’s dedication to supporting the trades has created a lasting impact on the campers,” she continues. “We hope other industry leaders follow Oatey’s example and help us continue providing campers with these invaluable experiences.”

By Sean Comerford

Plumber’s putty and silicone sealant are two common types of sealants used by plumbing professionals. But which one does what? And when should each be applied?

This article provides a detailed breakdown of the key differences between these two popular products and when to use them.

What is plumber’s putty?

Plumber’s putty is a sealing staple for professional plumbers. This easy-to-use product will prevent the migration of water between two rigid surfaces, keeping your fixtures leak-free. A malleable, clay-like compound, plumber’s putty creates a watertight seal by filling in the space under a flange to prevent water from seeping through.

What is silicone sealant?

You’ve probably noticed the terms ‘caulk’ and ‘sealant’ are often used interchangeably.  The two products serve a similar purpose, which is to act as sealing agents to fill gaps and cracks, as well as bonding agents between building materials, such as joining countertops to sink bases. Intended to prevent leaks, they are both applied to surfaces using a caulking gun, which likely explains why a sealant is technically categorized as a type of caulk.

The key distinction between a caulk and sealant? Elasticity.

— Caulk is typically made from a mixture of latex and acrylic materials, which make it more rigid and prone to shrinking when cured.

— A sealant offers superior elasticity and water resistance, because it primarily contains silicone. The silicone material allows a sealant to easily expand and contract during changing temperatures without losing its airtight/watertight seal.

Therefore, sealants are a smart choice for areas that experience frequent weather fluctuation and high moisture levels, such as kitchens, bathrooms, as well as around doors and windows.

The two most important factors to keep in mind when selecting a caulk or sealant are the temperature range and moisture level at the site of application. Silicone sealant can be applied at temperatures between 0 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit and can withstand operating temperatures of -70° F to 400° F.

4 key differences between plumber’s putty and silicone sealant

1. Dry time: Plumber’s putty has no dry time, whereas silicone requires cure time. Typically, most siliconized sealants or caulks need approximately 24 hours to cure completely or a minimum of eight hours before exposing it to water or moisture.

After plumber’s putty has been applied and the fixture put in place, the latter can be used immediately. However, if putty is being used in colder applications, we suggest waiting 10 minutes after the initial installation to confirm the product does not need an extra turn to ensure it is properly secured.

Typically, most types of sealants need approximately 24 hours to cure completely or a minimum of eight hours before exposing it to water or moisture.

2. How it dries: Silicone sealant or siliconized caulk is an adhesive and cannot be remolded or replaced after it has dried. Plumber’s putty is an easily workable, soft, pliable, fixture-setting compound. Unlike some other sealants, plumber’s putty remains soft over time and can be easily modified after its first application.

Plumber’s putty will remain pliable when not exposed to air and can be used as a bedding compound for strainers, faucets, and tub waste and overflows once out of the container. However, if the putty is exposed to air for an extended period of time, it will harden and become brittle. Once the putty has dried, nothing can be added to regenerate the putty without affecting the quality of the product.

3. Clean-up: Plumber’s putty is also easier to clean than silicone, because it does not stick to hands and requires no additional tools. Applying silicone can get messy. As a result, many contractors carry additional products, such as a caulking gun or a silicone spray, to make the application easier. In contrast, when using plumber’s putty, you need no more than a tub of putty to get the job done.

4a. When and where to use it — Plumber’s Putty: Plumber’s putty is specifically designed for plumbing applications. It is ideal for setting faucets, sink basket strainers, shower and pop-up drains. It’s easy to wipe away after installation and will not be visible from the outside of the plumbing fixture once installed. Oatey Plumber’s Putty, for example, will last two years from the manufacture date if the lid is sealed properly.

Because plumber’s putty is oil-based, it can stain porous materials, such as granite, marble, quartz and sandstone. For application on these surfaces, use a stain-free plumber’s putty, as this product is oil-free and will not stain the porous material.

Plumber’s putty is shaped by hand before it is applied to the plumbing part. Prior to using plumber’s putty, ensure all surfaces are dry and free from hardened putty, dirt, wax, oil and grease. Remove debris by wiping with a cloth, scraper or wire brush as needed and dry the surface.

Read this blog for the steps to apply plumber’s putty.

Do NOT use plumber’s putty in these instances:

• On plastics (acrylic or ABS — Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), because it will affect the integrity of the material and lead to product failure.
• In any pressurized connection, such as a gasketed fitting or on the thread of pipes. Although plumber’s putty creates a watertight seal, it is not an adhesive or glue.
• To seal a leaky toilet or toilet bowl to a finished floor, because plumber’s putty will dry out in the applications and is not waterproof. Cleaners and urine can also compromise the integrity of the putty if they come in contact with one another on the bathroom floor.
• To seal windows or doors, because plumber’s putty lacks any insulating qualities
• To install a drain on an acrylic tub and/or shower uni Stain-free and regular plumber’s putty can have an adverse effect on the finish of acrylic surfaces, similar to its effect on ABS plastic materials. You should use only 100%-silicone for this application.

4b. When and where to use it — Silicone Sealant: Due to a silicone sealant’s strong adhesiveness, elasticity and water-resistant properties, it’s an excellent choice for kitchen and bath applications, including:

• bonding top-mount and undermount sinks to countertops;
• bathtub/shower surrounds, doors and drains;
• sealing gaps and seams in gutters;
• filling exterior holes made by nails or screws;
• HVAC applications.

The bottom line

Plumber’s putty and silicone sealants are both great products to use on your projects, but they each have their own set of uses and benefits.

• If you’re looking for something that will withstand frequent weather fluctuation and high moisture levels, silicone sealant might be the best option.
• On the other hand, if you need something to prevent the migration of water between two rigid surfaces, keeping your fixtures leak-free, plumber’s putty is a smart choice.

About the author: Sean Comerford is a Technical Applications Manager at Oatey Co. He is a third-generation tradesman with nearly 20 years of plumbing experience, including serving as the lead plumber for commercial/residential new-construction, service and fire protection jobs. He holds a State of Ohio Fire Protection License for Sprinkler and Standpipe.

At 850 pounds and 152 inches long, the 72-120 in. Test-Ball^® Plug features best-in-class design to ensure optimal performance and safety

Cherne Industries, part of the Oatey Co. family of companies, today introduced its 72-120 inch Test-Ball^® Plug. The world’s largest test ball, it blocks flow in the biggest pipes in sanitary and storm sewer systems, up to 120 in. The plug is the latest addition to Cherne’s comprehensive, market-leading catalog of pipe plug, blocking and testing products.

Cherne’s 72-120 in. Test-Ball Plug was carefully developed with an optimized design that offers improved performance and safety. Accommodating a back pressure of up to 6 psi, the plug weighs 850 pounds and is 152 inches long. It is made from tough, tear-resistant natural rubber and features ¾ inch eyebolts that provide superior holding strength. A field-replaceable pressure relief valve prevents over-inflation, and an aluminum end plate minimizes rust and corrosion.

For more information, visit cherneind.com.

Without proper maintenance, steam and hot-water boilers in hydronic heating systems corrode and become less efficient, leading to additional service calls and a shorter life span. Replacing a heating system can be very expensive, costing home and building owners thousands of dollars.

To help prevent this, encourage your customers to spend a little money every year on services to maximize the life of their heating systems and prolong a significant expenditure.

With that said, there are some best practices when it comes to servicing a boiler not firing up or flushing different types of hydronic heating systems. In such a system, water expands when it is heated and contracts when it is cooled; i.e., enlarges or reduces in volume. Known as thermal expansion, this is the tendency of matter to change its shape, area, volume, and density in response to a change in temperature.

To accommodate thermal expansion, storage is needed within a system. Two types of systems accommodate thermal expansion: a closed loop (sealed) system and an open loop (vented) system.

Before we dive into how and when to flush a heating system, let’s take a closer look at the difference between a closed loop system and an open loop system.

What is a Closed Loop System versus an Open Loop System?

Closed Loop

In short, a closed loop system is closed to the atmosphere. These systems integrate expansion tanks to accommodate the expansion and contraction of water. A closed system also has a built-in, dedicated return line to carry water back to the heating source (usually a boiler), preventing the possibility of warm or cold spots from mixing in the water supply, as happens in an open loop system.

Usually smaller than open loop systems, closed loop systems there take up less space, while assisting with cleanliness, improving water quality, and reducing the entry of oxygen into the system.

As already noted, a closed loop means less potential for water to enter the system, and that decreases the risk of corrosion.

Open Loop

An open loop system is open to the atmosphere and draws water directly from the hot or cold water lines to which it is connected. Open loop systems have an open expansion tank that accommodates expansion and contraction within the system. More evaporation happens with this type of system, leading to more water being introduced and possibly contaminating the system.

While closed loop systems aren’t as common, they are usually older heating systems and often cannot reach higher pressures. As mentioned, these units allow pollutants to enter the system water, so feed and expansion tanks require periodic cleaning. That enables oxygen to enter the system, contributing to corrosion.

The pipework run from the expansion tank location to the mechanical room where the boiler is located can be grueling and will need insulating to protect against freezing. (More on freezing temperatures later.)

When to Flush a System

Flushing A Hot Water System

Newer residential hydronic systems with hot-water boilers are closed-loop. We do not recommend opening and flushing a closed loop system unless you absolutely have to. Why? Because the enemy of such a system is actually oxygenated water.

However, like a car, closed loop hydronic heating systems must be regularly serviced to prevent problems and maintain efficiency. But unlike a car, they don’t cough, stutter, give off smoke or produce a foul odor when something goes wrong. The system just silently continues doing its job, slowly deteriorating in performance and failing much sooner than it should.

However, sometimes the system will provide some clues that it is acting up — like making a rumbling noise as minerals start to collect in the system. After all, a closed system still has a component that feeds water into it if it needs to.

Additionally, your customer might have a system leak that they weren’t aware of, adding oxygenated water to the system for years. That will cause many problems and change the pH level in the system.

For a closed-loop residential boiler to operate properly, the liquid it circulates must maintain the correct pH levels. To truly identify if you have a potential leak or sludge buildup, you must conduct a pH test to determine if the system should be flushed with a cleaner. We recommend conducting a pH test at least once a year.

Start with a visual reading by opening the drain valve and bleeding off some liquid. If it appears clear, proceed with a pH test. To run a pH test, you can buy test strips that provide a color-coded readout. If you need a more precise reading — say, for an aluminum system — use a digital pH meter.

The correct pH level depends on the composition of the heat exchanger. Systems with a cast iron, stainless steel, or copper exchanger are resilient and usually have a wide range of acceptable levels. Aluminum is more prone to corrosion and may require a specific pH number. Read the system’s installation and operating manual to determine the acceptable pH range. We recommend using a corrosion inhibitor to balance out the pH — a seamless fix. However, if the buildup or corrosion has been going on for several years, the system will probably not recover with this treatment. Instead, you’ll have to use a cleaner to flush the system to maximize boiler efficiency.

Check out this blog that covers the impact of pH in hydronic heating systems and how to test and balance levels.

Flushing A Steam Heating System

Larger steam boilers are usually used in multifamily or commercial applications. Years ago, these large steam boilers held thousands of gallons of water. But, as time went by, steam boilers became more efficient. Today, more compact units are available.

As a steam boiler heats up, water turns into steam and eventually flows through the system. When that steam condensates, it all returns to the boiler. But newer, more compact boilers don’t have nearly the capacity of their older, larger counterparts, so the former run out of water quickly.

Over the years, the industry has developed components to sense when the boiler is low on or out of water. They will shut the boiler down, giving the system time to fill up. So these safety components essentially prevent the unit from firing if it’s low on or out of water.

Some components are electronic. Others involve a ball sitting inside the unit that floats up and down as the water level of the boiler changes.

Timers on these systems will indicate a shutoff for, say, one to three minutes, providing time for all the condensate and water to return to the boiler. Then, if the return water is not sufficient, electronic and solenoid valves will open to let more water in.

That, of course, permits corrosion-causing, oxygenated water into the system. Which is why these safety components must be flushed from time to time, because of the likelihood of mineral buildup.

Which is why steam boilers require regular maintenance and should be flushed with a cleaner or corrosion inhibitor at least twice a year — typically at the beginning and at the end of the heating season.

Preventative Maintenance and How to Flush a Heating System

Depending on how dirty the system is and if you don’t want to take it out of operation to completely flush it, we recommend using a cleaner like Hercules^® Boiler and Heating System Cleaner. That’s because it can stay in the system and doesn’t require flushing the system.

Hercules Boiler and Heating System Cleaner is formulated to clean and condition all steam and hot-water boilers in hydronic heating systems. The cleaner contains silicone to protect pumps by lubricating seals, maximizing efficiency and preventing valve clogging and corrosion.

Still, be sure to check the pH levels in the system. If the first liquid sample in your visual pH reading contains a lot of rust or sludge, you must take a more aggressive approach by flushing the system with a system restorer. Sludge indicates corrosion in the heat exchanger, fittings or piping.

Here’s how to remove sludge:

• Drain off about a gallon of liquid and replace it with three quarts of water and one quart of a system restorer like Hercules^® Sludgehammer^™ System Restorer & Noise Reducer, which removes scaling and sludge deposits.

• Let the solution circulate for two hours.
• After 2 hours of cycling, dump the system. Leaving the chemical in for too long can damage metal pipes and fittings and ruin the heat exchanger.
• Refill the system with a blend of water and inhibited virgin propylene glycol to prevent corrosion and scale buildup inside the heat exchanger and piping system. Always reference the system manufacturer’s installation and operating manual to ensure you use the proper blend.

Watch this video to learn how to remove sludge and corrosion in hydronic heating systems with Sludgehammer.

While Flushing the System, add Antifreeze

Many contractors use only water in indoor hydronic heating systems. However, water freezes at 32° Fahrenheit; so if there is a power outage, pipes could freeze and burst. In addition, as we’ve learned, water also promotes corrosion and mineral buildup.

Adding an inhibited virgin propylene glycol antifreeze to a boiler corrects both of those problems. Installing inhibited virgin propylene glycol into hydronic heating systems is also a requirement to maintain warranty by leading boiler manufacturers.

The type of antifreeze you’ll need depends on the climate and the metal content of the system.

• For cast iron, stainless steel, or copper systems, choose an antifreeze solution like Hercules^® CryoTek^™ AG, -100, Original or Universal.
• For systems with aluminum heat exchangers, the best choice is an antifreeze that works with any type of metal, such as Hercules^® Cryo-Tek^™
• Depending on the level of freeze protection required to have an effective and efficient operating system, you can choose blends like Cryo-Tek^™ AG or Universal and blend them with distilled water to arrive at the proper freeze protection. Or you can purchase pre-blended formulas like -100 or Original.

The active ingredient of antifreeze is propylene glycol. Avoid antifreeze products that contain “used” propylene glycol, which may introduce minerals and other foreign particles to the boiler. Look for a label that reads “inhibited virgin propylene glycol.”

Author’s biography: Sean Comerford is a Technical Applications Manager at Oatey Co. He is a third-generation tradesman with nearly 20 years of plumbing experience, including serving as the lead plumber for commercial/residential new-construction, service and fire protection jobs. He holds a State of Ohio Fire Protection License for Sprinkler and Standpipe.