Sean Comerford

Winterization is crucial for protecting plumbing systems from freezing temperatures and preventing costly pipe bursts and leaks. As a plumbing trade professional, it is essential to understand the steps involved in winterizing both interior and exterior plumbing.

This article provides expert winterization tips to share with your customers to ensure their plumbing system remains intact during winter months.

Steps to Winterize Interior Plumbing

1. Shut off the main water valve: Locate the main water valve, usually found in the basement, crawl space, or mechanical room. Shutting off the main water supply and opening all faucets will help drain the system effectively. For multilevel homes, start draining from the lowest level, while for single-level homes, begin from the tap closest to the main shutoff valve.
2. Adjust water heater settings: Set the water heater to the lowest temperature or “vacation mode” to prevent the tank from freezing. This step eliminates the need to relight the pilot upon the homeowner’s return.
3. Flush toilets and add antifreeze: After turning off the water and draining the system, flush all toilets to remove excess water from the tanks. Additionally, recommend pouring an environmentally safe antifreeze into the toilet bowl and tank to lubricate the flapper/seals and prevent dry rotting. Hercules^® Cryo-Tek™ 1 gal -100 Antifreeze is a ready to use 55% Virgin Propylene Glycol formula designed for hydronic heating and cooling closed loop systems and general plumbing systems that require freeze protection. Any Hercules Cryo-Tek product can be added to protect pipes from freezing and bursting. It also prevents freeze-ups in chiller systems, recreational vehicles, seasonal homes, mobile homes, trailers, boats, and industrial use.
4. Prepare drains with antifreeze: Pour antifreeze into shower, tub, floor, and sink drains to prevent freezing and maintain trap seals. This step ensures that water in the traps does not freeze or evaporate.
5. Maintain heat and air circulation: Keep the thermostat set to at least 55°F to prevent pipe freeze damage. Additionally, encourage clients to have their heating system inspected and serviced for optimal performance. Recommend keeping cabinet doors beneath bathroom and kitchen sinks open to allow warm air to reach the pipes.
6. Insulate exposed piping: Protect pipes in uninsulated areas and along exterior walls by covering them with insulating sleeves or wrap. This safeguards the plumbing system against frigid temperatures.
7. Seal off the garage: Advise homeowners to keep their garage doors shut to prevent cold drafts from reaching the plumbing on adjacent walls. Suggest adding a vinyl or rubber strip to the bottom of the garage door for better insulation against cold air and potential mold prevention.

Steps to Winterize Exterior Plumbing

1. Turn off external water supply valves: Locate the isolation valves on the water lines leading to the external water supply (usually in the basement, crawl space, or mechanical room) and shut them off. Open all taps until water is completely drained from the outside hose bibbs.
2. Disconnect garden hoses: Recommend clients remove garden hoses and fittings from the hose bibbs to prevent freezing. Water expands when it freezes and can cause pipe damage. To prevent valve damage, we suggest using an air compressor to blow out any residual water in the exterior lines.
3. Clear gutters and downspouts: Advise homeowners to clean out their gutters and downspouts to ensure proper water flow and prevent ice build-up, which can lead to costly repairs.
4. Seal cracks and gaps: Check for any visible cracks or gaps in siding, door frames, or windows. Use a sealant to fill both exterior and interior cracks, effectively blocking drafts that can lead to frozen pipes and increased utility bills.

Preventing frozen pipes during the winter requires thorough winterization both inside and outside the property. Following the steps outlined in this guide will help protect your clients’ plumbing systems and save them from potential headaches and expensive repairs.

About the Author

Sean Comerford is Technical Applications Manager at Oatey Co. He is third-generation tradesman with nearly 20 years of plumbing experience, including serving as the lead plumber for commercial/residential new construction, service and fire protection jobs. He holds a State of Ohio Fire Protection License for Sprinkler and Standpipe.

Without proper maintenance, steam and hot-water boilers in hydronic heating systems corrode and become less efficient, leading to additional service calls and a shorter life span. Replacing a heating system can be very expensive, costing home and building owners thousands of dollars.

To help prevent this, encourage your customers to spend a little money every year on services to maximize the life of their heating systems and prolong a significant expenditure.

With that said, there are some best practices when it comes to servicing a boiler not firing up or flushing different types of hydronic heating systems. In such a system, water expands when it is heated and contracts when it is cooled; i.e., enlarges or reduces in volume. Known as thermal expansion, this is the tendency of matter to change its shape, area, volume, and density in response to a change in temperature.

To accommodate thermal expansion, storage is needed within a system. Two types of systems accommodate thermal expansion: a closed loop (sealed) system and an open loop (vented) system.

Before we dive into how and when to flush a heating system, let’s take a closer look at the difference between a closed loop system and an open loop system.

What is a Closed Loop System versus an Open Loop System?

Closed Loop

In short, a closed loop system is closed to the atmosphere. These systems integrate expansion tanks to accommodate the expansion and contraction of water. A closed system also has a built-in, dedicated return line to carry water back to the heating source (usually a boiler), preventing the possibility of warm or cold spots from mixing in the water supply, as happens in an open loop system.

Usually smaller than open loop systems, closed loop systems there take up less space, while assisting with cleanliness, improving water quality, and reducing the entry of oxygen into the system.

As already noted, a closed loop means less potential for water to enter the system, and that decreases the risk of corrosion.

Open Loop

An open loop system is open to the atmosphere and draws water directly from the hot or cold water lines to which it is connected. Open loop systems have an open expansion tank that accommodates expansion and contraction within the system. More evaporation happens with this type of system, leading to more water being introduced and possibly contaminating the system.

While closed loop systems aren’t as common, they are usually older heating systems and often cannot reach higher pressures. As mentioned, these units allow pollutants to enter the system water, so feed and expansion tanks require periodic cleaning. That enables oxygen to enter the system, contributing to corrosion.

The pipework run from the expansion tank location to the mechanical room where the boiler is located can be grueling and will need insulating to protect against freezing. (More on freezing temperatures later.)

When to Flush a System

Flushing A Hot Water System

Newer residential hydronic systems with hot-water boilers are closed-loop. We do not recommend opening and flushing a closed loop system unless you absolutely have to. Why? Because the enemy of such a system is actually oxygenated water.

However, like a car, closed loop hydronic heating systems must be regularly serviced to prevent problems and maintain efficiency. But unlike a car, they don’t cough, stutter, give off smoke or produce a foul odor when something goes wrong. The system just silently continues doing its job, slowly deteriorating in performance and failing much sooner than it should.

However, sometimes the system will provide some clues that it is acting up — like making a rumbling noise as minerals start to collect in the system. After all, a closed system still has a component that feeds water into it if it needs to.

Additionally, your customer might have a system leak that they weren’t aware of, adding oxygenated water to the system for years. That will cause many problems and change the pH level in the system.

For a closed-loop residential boiler to operate properly, the liquid it circulates must maintain the correct pH levels. To truly identify if you have a potential leak or sludge buildup, you must conduct a pH test to determine if the system should be flushed with a cleaner. We recommend conducting a pH test at least once a year.

Start with a visual reading by opening the drain valve and bleeding off some liquid. If it appears clear, proceed with a pH test. To run a pH test, you can buy test strips that provide a color-coded readout. If you need a more precise reading — say, for an aluminum system — use a digital pH meter.

The correct pH level depends on the composition of the heat exchanger. Systems with a cast iron, stainless steel, or copper exchanger are resilient and usually have a wide range of acceptable levels. Aluminum is more prone to corrosion and may require a specific pH number. Read the system’s installation and operating manual to determine the acceptable pH range. We recommend using a corrosion inhibitor to balance out the pH — a seamless fix. However, if the buildup or corrosion has been going on for several years, the system will probably not recover with this treatment. Instead, you’ll have to use a cleaner to flush the system to maximize boiler efficiency.

Check out this blog that covers the impact of pH in hydronic heating systems and how to test and balance levels.

Flushing A Steam Heating System

Larger steam boilers are usually used in multifamily or commercial applications. Years ago, these large steam boilers held thousands of gallons of water. But, as time went by, steam boilers became more efficient. Today, more compact units are available.

As a steam boiler heats up, water turns into steam and eventually flows through the system. When that steam condensates, it all returns to the boiler. But newer, more compact boilers don’t have nearly the capacity of their older, larger counterparts, so the former run out of water quickly.

Over the years, the industry has developed components to sense when the boiler is low on or out of water. They will shut the boiler down, giving the system time to fill up. So these safety components essentially prevent the unit from firing if it’s low on or out of water.

Some components are electronic. Others involve a ball sitting inside the unit that floats up and down as the water level of the boiler changes.

Timers on these systems will indicate a shutoff for, say, one to three minutes, providing time for all the condensate and water to return to the boiler. Then, if the return water is not sufficient, electronic and solenoid valves will open to let more water in.

That, of course, permits corrosion-causing, oxygenated water into the system. Which is why these safety components must be flushed from time to time, because of the likelihood of mineral buildup.

Which is why steam boilers require regular maintenance and should be flushed with a cleaner or corrosion inhibitor at least twice a year — typically at the beginning and at the end of the heating season.

Preventative Maintenance and How to Flush a Heating System

Depending on how dirty the system is and if you don’t want to take it out of operation to completely flush it, we recommend using a cleaner like Hercules^® Boiler and Heating System Cleaner. That’s because it can stay in the system and doesn’t require flushing the system.

Hercules Boiler and Heating System Cleaner is formulated to clean and condition all steam and hot-water boilers in hydronic heating systems. The cleaner contains silicone to protect pumps by lubricating seals, maximizing efficiency and preventing valve clogging and corrosion.

Still, be sure to check the pH levels in the system. If the first liquid sample in your visual pH reading contains a lot of rust or sludge, you must take a more aggressive approach by flushing the system with a system restorer. Sludge indicates corrosion in the heat exchanger, fittings or piping.

Here’s how to remove sludge:

• Drain off about a gallon of liquid and replace it with three quarts of water and one quart of a system restorer like Hercules^® Sludgehammer^™ System Restorer & Noise Reducer, which removes scaling and sludge deposits.

• Let the solution circulate for two hours.
• After 2 hours of cycling, dump the system. Leaving the chemical in for too long can damage metal pipes and fittings and ruin the heat exchanger.
• Refill the system with a blend of water and inhibited virgin propylene glycol to prevent corrosion and scale buildup inside the heat exchanger and piping system. Always reference the system manufacturer’s installation and operating manual to ensure you use the proper blend.

Watch this video to learn how to remove sludge and corrosion in hydronic heating systems with Sludgehammer.

While Flushing the System, add Antifreeze

Many contractors use only water in indoor hydronic heating systems. However, water freezes at 32° Fahrenheit; so if there is a power outage, pipes could freeze and burst. In addition, as we’ve learned, water also promotes corrosion and mineral buildup.

Adding an inhibited virgin propylene glycol antifreeze to a boiler corrects both of those problems. Installing inhibited virgin propylene glycol into hydronic heating systems is also a requirement to maintain warranty by leading boiler manufacturers.

The type of antifreeze you’ll need depends on the climate and the metal content of the system.

• For cast iron, stainless steel, or copper systems, choose an antifreeze solution like Hercules^® CryoTek^™ AG, -100, Original or Universal.
• For systems with aluminum heat exchangers, the best choice is an antifreeze that works with any type of metal, such as Hercules^® Cryo-Tek^™
• Depending on the level of freeze protection required to have an effective and efficient operating system, you can choose blends like Cryo-Tek^™ AG or Universal and blend them with distilled water to arrive at the proper freeze protection. Or you can purchase pre-blended formulas like -100 or Original.

The active ingredient of antifreeze is propylene glycol. Avoid antifreeze products that contain “used” propylene glycol, which may introduce minerals and other foreign particles to the boiler. Look for a label that reads “inhibited virgin propylene glycol.”

Author’s biography: Sean Comerford is a Technical Applications Manager at Oatey Co. He is a third-generation tradesman with nearly 20 years of plumbing experience, including serving as the lead plumber for commercial/residential new-construction, service and fire protection jobs. He holds a State of Ohio Fire Protection License for Sprinkler and Standpipe.

There’s a strong chance you’ve installed or spotted copper pipe somewhere in a home or building. Copper is the metal of choice for potable water systems for a variety of reasons – the most important being that it is non-toxic and safe for drinking. The naturally occurring metal element is also preferred for various application types due to its high conductivity of electricity and heat, corrosion/fire resistance and durability.

The process of joining copper pipe and fitting is called soldering (or sweating), which is a critical step in the copper installation process. Solder is a metal or metallic alloy that historically consisted of lead (known as lead-based solder) and tin in various proportions. Today, due to the Safe Water Drinking Act and lead-free restrictions, solders that contain more than 0.2% lead are not permitted for use in potable water systems.

Solders that are safe to use on potable water systems contain a percentage of tin and a combination of other non-toxic metals. The melting point of solder is lower than copper, and when heated, solder melts and fuses the piping together once completely cooled.

Learning how to solder copper pipe can seem daunting at first, but by applying proper techniques and avoiding typical errors, it becomes much easier to execute a leak-free pipe joint.

Let’s explore five common mistakes to avoid during the soldering process.

Choosing the Wrong Products

In addition to choosing the proper type of solder for your application, you will need to select the right type of copper pipe and flux, a compound that promotes the flow of molten solder between the pipe and fitting through a process known as capillary action.

Flux is also formulated to remove any oxidation from pipe and actually etches pipe surface in preparation for the soldering process to be successful. Important variables, such as ambient temperature, local code guidelines, and any jobsite time limitations, should all be considered prior to purchasing your soldering supplies.

Below, we’ve included some brief guidelines to keep in mind for your next soldering project.

• Copper Pipe
  • Type K: Has the thickest wall and strongest durability. It is commonly used for commercial plumbing, such as underground water mains for potable water supply and HVAC lines.
  • Type L: Wall thickness falls between Type K and M. Typically used for interior hot and cold-water distribution.
  • Type M: Has the thinnest wall and is the most popular choice for domestic plumbing systems due to its light weight, decreased rigidity and affordability.
  • Copper DWV: Commonly used in older homes for vents and drains. No longer a popular choice among modern-day homeowners, as there are more cost-effective options available.
• Flux
  • Petroleum-based Flux (or Petrolatum Flux): Flushing required and designed to provide superior wetting properties for better solder flow. Compatible with all common plumbing solder alloys, such as copper, copper-coated metals, brass, zinc, galvanized iron, lead and tin.
  • Hot Weather Flux: Specially formulated for hot weather climates and will not separate in temperatures up to 135°F.
  • Water-soluble Flux: Water flushable and compatible with all common plumbing solder alloys.
  • Tinning Flux: Available in both water-soluble and petroleum-based formulas. Enhanced with tinning powder particles to pre-tin piping and improve the flow of solder/enable even heating of a fitting, which is necessary when soldering larger diameter piping systems. Compatible with all common plumbing solder alloys. Check out this article to learn how to expertly solder low-lead brass using tinning flux.

Although petroleum-based fluxes are safe to use, they are required to be flushed with a chemical solution from the piping system due to their water insolubility. However, water-soluble fluxes become self-cleaning and flush away once water enters the system. Refer to manufacturer instructions for product-specific application and safety guidelines to ensure proper use.

• Solder
  • Tin-antimony Solder: Contains 95% and 5% antimony. Lead-free and safe for water supply lines. Designed for use in plumbing applications where frequent extreme temperature changes and vibrations occur (refrigeration, cooling equipment and heat ducts); can also be used to solder electronics. Melting range is 450°F to 464°F. Has an unlimited shelf life.
  • Copper-tin Solder: Contains 97% tin and 3% copper. Lead-free and safe for water supply lines. Designed for sweating copper and brass plumbing joints. Melting range is 440°F to 572°F. Has an unlimited shelf life.
  • Silver-bearing solder: Contains silver, copper, bismuth and tin. Lead-free and safe for water supply lines. Ideal for low-lead brass applications. Has a wide melting range (420°F to 460°F) that enables more time for soldering joints.

Skipping the Prep

Failure to properly prep both the pipe and fitting is arguably one of the most critical mistakes in the soldering process. To achieve a properly sealed joint, oxidation and oils on the copper surfaces must be removed using special cleaning tools. Otherwise, it’s likely the solder will not completely fill the cup of the fitting, resulting in a weak or leaky joint.

Each of the following steps should be completed as you prep copper pipe for the perfect joint:

1. After cutting the copper to the desired length, deburr (or ream) the inside of pipe end using a deburring tool to remove any small bumps or roughness (known as burrs) on the inside diameter or the pipe. If this step is overlooked, pipe pressure will decrease and water flow will be restricted. Any leftover burrs or copper shavings could cause noisy pipes when water enters the system.
2. Remove oils and dirt from the outside of pipe end and polish clean with an abrasive sand cloth, open mesh cloth, nylon grit pad or tube cleaning brush. For wet applications, a nylon grit pad or open-mesh cloth are ideal due to their self-cleaning abilities.
3. Clean all openings of the fitting hub with a fitting brush.

Applying Too Much Flux

It can be tempting to use a large glob of flux while soldering. However, we recommend evenly applying a thin layer of this product with an acid brush to copper pipe and the inside of a fitting – any excess flux should be removed prior to connecting them.

Applying too much flux will not only result in uselessly wasted product, but could also cause severe pipe damage over time. Once heat is applied to flux it turns to an acid; however, any excess flux will melt and travel through the inside of pipe, which may result in pitting and corrosion.

Overheating the Joint

When heating the fitting to sweat the copper pipe, make sure you remove the flame as soon the solder melts. As solder melts, flux will pull the solder into the fitting cup. Too much heat will cause excess solder flow or flux to burn out, which will increase the chance of a leak path.

Pro Tip: Never heat solder directly because you risk melting and breaking it off completely. It’s best to heat the joint evenly and then position the tip of the flame to the bottom of the fitting hub. The solder will flow toward the heat source and ensure the joint is completely filled.

Neglecting Clean Up

While the joint is still warm, immediately wipe away any leftover flux or solder drips with a dry rag to ensure copper pipe longevity. Excess flux may seem harmless; however, it can cause Verdigris, a greenish-blue discoloration commonly found on copper, bronze and brass, to form and destroy copper pipe over time. An old, rusting penny and the Statue of Liberty are great examples of Verdigris in action.

READY FOR YOUR NEXT SOLDERING PROJECT?

For a step-by-step guide on how to solder copper pipe, check out the video below.

 

Author’s biography: Sean Comerford is a Technical Customer Service Specialist at Oatey Co. He is a third-generation tradesman with nearly 20 years of plumbing experience, including serving as the lead plumber for commercial/residential new construction, service and fire protection jobs. He holds a State of Ohio Fire Protection License for Sprinkler and Standpipe.

Solvent welding in a cold environment presents challenges that have to be counterbalanced. Why? Pipe and fittings take longer to soften in colder weather. The pipe is also more resistant to solvent attack, so softening it with an aggressive primer is important during cold weather.

By following certain cold-weather solvent welding instructions, and demonstrating patience, you can successfully solvent weld pipe joints in sub-zero temperatures (as low as -15°F).

We’re sharing seven tips to ensure successful solvent cemented pipe joints during the cold winter months.

1. Prefabricate as much of the piping system as possible in a warm environment.

We recommend assembling as much of the piping system as possible in a heated work environment. If you can control the temperature, it’ll make for better joints.

Any joints that must be made at the assembly work-site should be protected by some sort of temporary or portable shelter.

2. Store cement and primers in a warmer area.

Colder applications will require storing your pipe cement in a warmer environment (above 40°F). It’s important not to leave solvent cement outside in the cold for an extended period because it will take on a gel-like consistency. If the cement has gelled, we do not recommend using it. Solvent cement should remain fluid.

If you have bulk items on the jobsite, be sure to store them in a temperature-controlled area so it doesn’t come in contact with the cold.

Maybe you keep your cement and primers on your truck dashboard while you’re traveling between jobsites. In that case, if you’ve been out for a couple of hours, we recommend bringing them inside after your last service call. That way, the product can get acclimated to the warmer temperature and reach the right consistency for your next project.

3. Remove moisture from the ends of pipe and surfaces.

Before starting the solvent welding process, take time to clean off pipe ends and fittings to remove any dampness, residual water or ice. If moisture penetrates the cement, it will cause it to gel.

Of course, wet or damp conditions are sometimes unavoidable. In that case, we recommend using a solvent cement formulated to cure in damp conditions, like Oatey Rain-R-Shine, a fast-set cement designed for wet conditions.

4. Aggressively apply primer to fittings and pipe.

Particularly in colder applications, be sure to apply and aggressively work in primer. Primer must be used to create a solvent weld on PVC and CPVC pipes. Oatey Purple Primer is an NSF-listed primer for use on all schedules and classes of PVC and CPVC pipe and fittings.

To understand the importance of applying primer, it may be helpful to think of the fitting and the pipe as your skin. Your pores are coated and closed tightly; working the primer more aggressively onto the fitting and the pipe will ensure that you open up the pores. That way, you are preparing the pipe to accept the cement.

While applying primer to fittings and pipes, be sure to re-dip between each application. Once you have primed the pipe and the fitting, you have five minutes to apply cement and finish the connection. Waiting too long will negatively affect the creation of a good solvent weld.

5. Vigorously shake or stir cement before usage.

Before every use, we recommend shaking the can or stirring its contents before application. That’ll help blend in the components of the cement, making sure you get an even consistency throughout.

6. Allow a longer cure time before testing or using the system.

Cure time depends on several factors: pipe material, pipe size, ambient temperature and humidity. However, solvent cement will take longer to cure in colder temperatures. Allow enough time for the solvents to evaporate before testing the system or putting it in service.

In temperatures between 20°F to 40°F, the joint may take up to three days to fully cure for higher pressure applications. However, be sure to refer to the average joint cure times provided by the manufacturer for PVC, ABS and CPVC solvent cement. For temperatures below 20°F, we recommend contacting Oatey Technical Services for exact cure time information.

Do not attempt to speed up the cure time by applying direct heat to the joint because that could deteriorate joint strength or affect the integrity of the pipe.

However, you can create a temperature-controlled environment to accelerate the process. If you have a temporarily heated area, you may close off the openings of the dwelling to help speed the process while leaving your pipe ends open so that airflow can enter the system and help the solvents evaporate.

View our overview document for more information on all our cement offerings and their cure/set times.

7. Follow all ASTM standards and steps.

It’s important to follow all ASTM standards and steps in the solvent welding process. Be sure not to skip any when preparing the pipe — for example, choosing not to chamfer the pipe.

If you don’t chamfer the pipe or bevel the outside edge, the sharp edges can scrape the cement off the walls of the fitting, as the pipe is being inserted. This could potentially cause blockage or leak paths.

In colder temperatures, it is especially important not to skip these steps because the cold makes creating a solvent welded joint more challenging. To ensure you follow all ASTM standards and create a perfect solvent weld, avoid these five common solvent welding mistakes.

With our application tips for cold-weather solvent welding, you’re well on your way to creating long-lasting, leak-free connections this winter.

Author’s biography: Sean Comerford is a Technical Customer Service Specialist at Oatey Co. He is a third-generation tradesman with nearly 20 years of plumbing experience, including serving as the lead plumber for commercial/residential new construction, service and fire protection jobs. He holds a State of Ohio Fire Protection License for Sprinkler and Standpipe.